Journal/Ingredients & evidence
The complete guide

The research behind our Sensitive Skin Moisturiser

What sensitive skin is, why fragrance is the first thing to leave out, what each of the 23 ingredients does, and what the research does and doesn't prove.

Elurelia EditorialUpdated 29 September 202615 min read10 references
The research behind our Sensitive Skin Moisturiser
Key takeaways
1Sensitive skin is common. In a meta-analysis of 26 surveys, 71% of people said their skin was sensitive to some degree. 2Fragrance is the first thing to drop. It is one of the most common causes of allergy to cosmetics, and this moisturiser has none. 3It is a humectant moisturiser. Organic aloe juice, glycerin and sodium PCA draw water in; jojoba and light emollients soften. 4It makes no redness claim. No ingredient in it has good evidence for reducing redness, so we don't say it does. 5It is certified COSMOS Organic. 100% natural origin, 22% organic, 23 ingredients, all named.

Most people who say they have sensitive skin have spent money on products that stung. The usual response from the beauty industry is to add something soothing. Our response is to take things out: no fragrance, no essential oils, no strong actives, and a short list of ingredients that help skin hold water.

This guide explains what sensitive skin is, why we built the moisturiser the way we did, and what the research on each ingredient shows. If you only want the product, the moisturiser page has everything. If your skin is dry rather than reactive, read rich cream or light moisturiser? And if you want to know what the words on labels mean, what "fragrance-free" really means covers it.

01What "sensitive skin" means

For a long time "sensitive skin" was a marketing phrase with no agreed meaning. An international group of skin specialists has since agreed a definition, published in 2017, and it is more precise than most people expect.

Definition of sensitive skin

Evidence: expert consensus
StudyMisery et al., 2017. Acta Dermato-Venereologica.
What it coversA position paper from the special interest group on sensitive skin of the International Forum for the Study of Itch, agreed using the Delphi method.
The definitionA syndrome of unpleasant sensations (stinging, burning, pain, itching and tingling) in response to things that normally shouldn't cause them. They can't be explained by a skin disease. The skin can look normal or be red. It can affect any part of the body, especially the face.
What it doesn't coverIt defines the condition. It doesn't say which products help.
Original sources
  1. Misery L., Ständer S., Szepietowski J.C., et al. Definition of sensitive skin: an expert position paper from the special interest group on sensitive skin of the International Forum for the Study of Itch. Acta Derm Venereol 97(1):4–6, 2017. Read the source

Two things follow from this. First, sensitive skin is about how skin feels as much as how it looks: many people with sensitive skin have no visible redness at all. Second, it is separate from skin diseases such as eczema, rosacea or allergic contact dermatitis, which can look similar and need their own care. If your face is red for weeks, flushes easily or has bumps, see a doctor, because rosacea is common and a moisturiser alone won't address it.

02How common it is

Sensitive skin

Evidence: meta-analysis of surveys
StudyChen, Dai & Li, 2020. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology.
What was tested26 surveys of the general population in 18 countries, covering 51,783 people, combined in a meta-analysis.
What it found71% said their skin was sensitive to some degree, and 40% said it was moderately or very sensitive. 64% described their facial skin as sensitive to some degree. Women were more likely to report it than men.
What it doesn't proveThe answers are self-reported and the surveys defined sensitive skin in different ways. It tells you the problem is common; it says nothing about what helps.
Original sources
  1. Chen W., Dai R., Li L. The prevalence of self-declared sensitive skin: a systematic review and meta-analysis. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 34(8):1779–1788, 2020. Read the source

If you think of your skin as sensitive, you are in the majority. That is partly why the phrase is on so many labels, and why it pays to look past it to the ingredient list.

03Why fragrance is the first thing to leave out

Stinging and burning have many triggers, and most of them are individual. Allergy is different: it is a specific immune reaction to a specific substance, and once you have it, it tends to last. Fragrance ingredients are among the most frequent causes of allergy to cosmetics.

Fragrance allergy

Evidence: large population study
StudyDiepgen et al., 2015. British Journal of Dermatology.
What was tested12,377 adults in Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, Portugal and Sweden were interviewed, and a random sample of 3,119 was patch tested with fragrance allergens.
What it foundThe most common single result was a positive test to fragrance mix I, in 2.6%. Using a conservative definition, 1.9% had a fragrance allergy that mattered in daily life. Women were affected about twice as often as men.
What it doesn't proveMost people aren't allergic to fragrance. Leaving it out lowers one risk; it can't rule out every reaction.
Original sources
  1. Diepgen T.L., Ofenloch R., Bruze M., et al. Prevalence of fragrance contact allergy in the general population of five European countries: a cross-sectional study. Br J Dermatol 173(6):1411–1419, 2015. Read the source

Around two in a hundred adults may sound small. Applied to a face cream that is used twice a day for years, on the skin people most often describe as sensitive, it is enough to justify leaving the perfume out. There is also no benefit to your skin from perfume in a moisturiser. It is there for the experience of using it.

"Fragrance-free" doesn't always mean it

Fragrance-free labels

Evidence: product survey
StudyXu et al., 2017. JAMA Dermatology.
What was testedThe ingredient lists of 174 best-selling whole-body moisturisers on three large US retail websites, checked against a standard list of skin allergens.
What it foundOnly 12% contained none of the allergens on the list. Of the products labelled fragrance-free, 45% still contained at least one plant extract or ingredient that can set off a reaction in people with fragrance allergy.
What it doesn't proveIt looked at US products and their labels, not at reactions in people. EU labelling rules differ.
Original sources
  1. Xu S., Kwa M., Lohman M.E., Evers-Meltzer R., Silverberg J.I. Consumer preferences, product characteristics, and potentially allergenic ingredients in best-selling moisturizers. JAMA Dermatol 153(11):1099–1105, 2017. Read the source

This is why we name every ingredient and say which ones have a scent of their own. This moisturiser contains no Parfum, no essential oils and nothing from the EU fragrance allergen list, including the expanded list that has applied to new products since 31 July 2026. Its plant ingredients are aloe, jojoba, bush mango butter and a red algae extract.

04What a moisturiser for sensitive skin needs

There is no single ingredient that makes a moisturiser suitable for sensitive skin. There are, however, sensible rules, and we built the formula around them.

Rule Why In this moisturiser
No fragrance or essential oils Fragrance is a common cause of allergy to cosmetics None, 0 declared allergens
Humectants to hold water Dehydrated skin feels tight and more reactive Organic aloe juice, glycerin, sodium PCA, two forms of hyaluronic acid
Light emollients Soften without a heavy film Organic jojoba oil, coco-caprylate, isoamyl laurate, caprylic/capric triglyceride
No strong actives Acids, retinoids and high-strength vitamin C sting sensitive skin None
A short, readable list Fewer ingredients to rule in or out 23 ingredients, all named

05Glycerin: second on the list

Glycerin

Evidence: review
StudyFluhr, Darlenski & Surber, 2008. British Journal of Dermatology.
What was testedA review of research on glycerol (glycerin) and the skin, from lab studies to human trials.
What it foundGlycerol improves hydration of the outer layer, supports barrier function and makes the skin feel smoother. The skin also makes and uses glycerol itself.
What it doesn't proveA review. Our glycerin percentage isn't published, though second place on the list suggests several per cent.
Original sources
  1. Fluhr J.W., Darlenski R., Surber C. Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions. Br J Dermatol 159(1):23–34, 2008.

Glycerin is the workhorse of this formula. It is cheap, well studied and well tolerated, and there is good evidence behind it in general. In one trial in the Cochrane review of moisturisers for eczema, more people using a glycerin moisturiser noticed their skin improve than people using the same cream without glycerin.

06Aloe leaf juice: the base

Organic aloe leaf juice is the first ingredient, which means it is the largest part of the formula, larger than the water further down. Aloe gel is mostly water with sugars, including polysaccharides that hold water on the skin.

Aloe vera

Evidence: small human study
StudyDal'Belo, Gaspar & Maia Campos, 2006. Skin Research and Technology.
What was tested20 women applied creams containing 0.10%, 0.25% or 0.50% freeze-dried aloe extract, or the same cream without aloe, to the forearm daily for two weeks.
What it foundAfter two weeks, all three aloe creams raised the water content of the outer layer compared with the plain cream. Water loss through the skin didn't change.
What it doesn't proveA small forearm study of a different cream, with freeze-dried extract. It says nothing about redness or irritation.
Original sources
  1. Dal'Belo S.E., Gaspar L.R., Maia Campos P.M. Moisturizing effect of cosmetic formulations containing Aloe vera extract in different concentrations assessed by skin bioengineering techniques. Skin Res Technol 12(4):241–246, 2006. Read the source

07Sodium PCA: part of the skin's own moisturiser

Sodium PCA is seventh on the list. PCA (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) is the largest single part of the skin's natural moisturising factor, the mix of small molecules that keeps the outer layer supple. Adding it to a cream tops up something the skin already uses.

Sodium PCA

Evidence: older review
StudyClar & Fourtanier, 1981. International Journal of Cosmetic Science.
What was testedA review of research on PCA and its salts in the skin and in creams.
What it foundCreams containing at least 2% PCA or PCA salt improved dry skin in the studies reviewed.
What it doesn't proveAn older review, much of it the authors' own work. Our percentage isn't known; its position suggests a low one.
Original sources
  1. Clar E.J., Fourtanier A. Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and the skin. Int J Cosmet Sci 3(3):101–113, 1981.

08Hyaluronic acid: two forms, near the end

The moisturiser contains sodium hyaluronate, eighteenth of 23, and hydrolysed hyaluronic acid, last. Hyaluronic acid holds a great deal of water, and different molecular sizes behave differently on the skin: large ones stay on the surface and form a film, smaller ones get further into the outer layer.

Hyaluronic acid

Evidence: controlled human study, different cream
StudyPavicic et al., 2011. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology.
What was tested76 women aged 30 to 60 applied 0.1% hyaluronic acid creams of different molecular weights around one eye twice a day for 60 days, with a plain cream around the other eye.
What it foundEvery molecular weight improved hydration and elasticity compared with the plain cream. The two smallest also reduced measured wrinkle depth.
What it doesn't proveA different cream, at 0.1%. Ours are low on the list and their percentages aren't published, so we make no wrinkle claim.
Original sources
  1. Pavicic T., Gauglitz G.G., Lersch P., et al. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. J Drugs Dermatol 10(9):990–1000, 2011. Read the source

09Jojoba oil and the light emollients

Organic jojoba seed oil is third on the list. Strictly it is a liquid wax, and it resembles the wax esters in the skin's own oil. It softens without feeling heavy, which suits a light moisturiser.

Jojoba oil

Evidence: review
StudyPazyar et al., 2013. Giornale Italiano di Dermatologia e Venereologia.
What was testedA review of research on jojoba in dermatology.
What it foundJojoba showed anti-inflammatory activity in the studies reviewed and is widely used for dry skin.
What it doesn't proveA short review of mostly small and lab studies. Count it as supporting evidence.
Original sources
  1. Pazyar N., Yaghoobi R., Ghassemi M.R., et al. Jojoba in dermatology: a succinct review. G Ital Dermatol Venereol 148(6):687–691, 2013. Read the source

Around it sit three light, plant-derived emollients: coco-caprylate, isoamyl laurate and caprylic/capric triglyceride. They are the reason the cream spreads easily and doesn't feel greasy. They have no special research behind them because they don't need it: they are well-established, well-tolerated cosmetic oils.

10Red algae and bush mango butter

Two ingredients in the formula have no human research that we could find. Hydrolysed red algae extract (listed as Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract) is a seaweed extract used for its film-forming and hydrating feel. Bush mango kernel butter (Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter) is a light plant butter from West Africa that adds a little richness.

We searched for peer-reviewed trials of both on human skin and found none. That doesn't make them bad ingredients; it means we can't tell you what, if anything, they add beyond feel. We'd rather say so than borrow research on other seaweeds or butters.

11Does the brand of moisturiser matter?

Moisturisers in general

Evidence: Cochrane review of 77 trials
Studyvan Zuuren et al., 2017. Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews.
What was tested77 randomised trials with 6,603 people with eczema, comparing moisturisers with no moisturiser, placebo creams or each other.
What it foundMoisturisers reduced eczema severity and flares. In one trial, more people noticed improvement with a glycerin moisturiser than with its plain base. There was no reliable evidence that any one moisturiser is better than another.
What it doesn't provePeople with eczema, not sensitive skin in general. None of the trials tested our cream.
Original sources
  1. van Zuuren E.J., Fedorowicz Z., Christensen R., Lavrijsen A., Arents B.W.M. Emollients and moisturisers for eczema. Cochrane Database Syst Rev 2:CD012119, 2017. Read the source

For sensitive skin this is useful in two ways. It means a plain, well-made moisturiser is a reasonable choice, and it means the best moisturiser for you is the one your skin tolerates and you use every day. That is the case we make for this one: fewer triggers, a short readable list, and a light feel that makes twice-a-day use easy.

12What we don't claim: redness and "calming"

Many moisturisers for sensitive skin claim to reduce redness or calm irritation. We don't, because none of the ingredients in this formula has good evidence for reducing redness when used in a cream like ours. A well-hydrated skin barrier may feel more comfortable and react less, and that is as far as we go.

Persistent redness is worth taking seriously. Rosacea, eczema and allergic contact dermatitis can all look like "sensitive skin", and all of them are better managed with a diagnosis. If redness lasts more than a few weeks, flares with heat, alcohol or spicy food, or comes with bumps or scaling, see a doctor.

13How to patch test a new moisturiser

If your skin reacts easily, try any new product on a small area first. Apply a small amount to the inner forearm, or just below the ear, once or twice a day for five days, in the same place each time. If there is no redness, itching or stinging, try it on one cheek for a few days before using it all over.

A patch test isn't a guarantee, but it catches most problems before they reach your whole face. If you do react, stop using the product and note the ingredient list: over time, the ingredients common to products that bother you are the ones to avoid.

14What COSMOS Organic means here

The moisturiser is certified COSMOS Organic by Ecocert. Its natural-origin content is 100% and its organic content is 22%, both calculated to the COSMOS standard. The organic aloe juice and organic jojoba oil are the organic ingredients. COSMOS Organic sets minimum organic content for the product and for its plant ingredients; it doesn't make a product suitable for sensitive skin on its own, which is why we also look at what is left out.

15How to use it, and how long it lasts

Cleanse gently with lukewarm water, then pat dry. One pump is enough for the face; a second covers the neck. Smooth it in without rubbing. In the morning, let it sink in for a minute, then apply sunscreen. It has no SPF.

For a simple fragrance-free routine: our Fragrance-Free Niacinamide Serum before the moisturiser if you want an active, and our Fragrance-Free Biphasic Make-up Remover for eye make-up. Our guide to a simple routine for sensitive skin has more. Used morning and evening, a 50 ml bottle lasts around two months.

16Who it suits, and who should skip it

It suits you if your skin stings, itches or reddens with many products; you want a moisturiser with no fragrance and no declared allergens; your skin feels tight or dehydrated but you dislike rich creams; or you want a simple moisturiser for morning and evening.

Skip it, or check first, if your skin is very dry or flaky (our Fragrance-Free Rich Cream suits it better); you want an active for lines or dark spots; you have a skin condition that is flaring, in which case see a doctor or pharmacist; or you want SPF, which it doesn't have.

17What it adds up to

This is a plain, light, fragrance-free moisturiser built on humectants with good general evidence: glycerin, aloe and sodium PCA, with jojoba and light emollients to soften. Its strongest feature is what it leaves out. Its weakest point is that two of its ingredients have no human research we could find, and that it hasn't been tested as a finished product in a published study.

If you want a moisturiser that doesn't add to the list of things your skin might react to, it is a sensible choice. The product page has the full formula, and if your skin is drier than it is sensitive, rich cream or light moisturiser? will help you choose.

18Your questions, answered

What is the best moisturiser for sensitive skin?

The one your skin tolerates and you use every day. Start with one that has no fragrance or essential oils and a short ingredient list, and patch test it first.

Is this moisturiser fragrance-free?

Yes. No Parfum, no essential oils and no ingredient from the EU fragrance allergen list.

Does it reduce redness?

We don't claim it does. If you have persistent redness, see a doctor: it may be rosacea.

What does sensitive skin mean?

Unpleasant sensations such as stinging, burning or itching in response to things that shouldn't cause them, not explained by a skin disease. The skin may look normal or red.

Can I use it with niacinamide?

Yes. Apply the serum first and the moisturiser on top.

Is it enough for dry skin?

For normal, combination and dehydrated skin, usually. For very dry skin, a richer cream may suit you better.

Is it vegan?

Yes, and gluten free.

Does the 60-Day Promise apply?

Yes, on your first order, conditions apply. The full terms are on our 60-Day Promise page.

Fragrance-Free Sensitive Skin Moisturiser Nothing added that your skin doesn't need. 60-Day Promise on your first order, conditions apply.

This article is for general information and isn't medical advice. Cosmetic products: all claims describe the appearance and feel of skin.

In this article

The products we mention.

Each page lists the full ingredient list, every declared allergen and who should skip it.

Fragrance-Free Sensitive Skin Moisturiser
Fragrance-Free Sensitive Skin Moisturiser €49,99Prijs per liter: €999,80 / l · Incl. btw, excl. verzendkosten See the full formula →
Fragrance-Free Rich Cream
Fragrance-Free Rich Cream €57,99Prijs per liter: €1.159,80 / l · Incl. btw, excl. verzendkosten See the full formula →
Fragrance-Free Niacinamide Serum
Fragrance-Free Niacinamide Serum €49,99Prijs per liter: €1.666,33 / l · Incl. btw, excl. verzendkosten See the full formula →
Micellar Cleansing Water
Micellar Cleansing Water €21,99Prijs per liter: €109,95 / l · Incl. btw, excl. verzendkosten See the full formula →
Why we publish all of this

Every ingredient, published.

Each product page lists the full ingredient list, every declared allergen, who it suits and who should skip it. If the research is thin, the page says so.

Shop the range 60-Day Promise on your first order, conditions apply. Free shipping over €75.