Journal/Guides
Which one is right for me?

Serum, moisturiser, or both?

We make two products with the same plant retinol alternative. Here's how they differ, which suits which skin, when one is enough, and when you'd be better off with neither.

Elurelia EditorialUpdated 25 September 20266 min read4 references
Photo 01 · Hero · The serum bottle and the moisturiser bottle side by side on a warm neutral surface, soft side light, a few Bidens Pilosa flowers laid flat in front. No people. · 2400×1030 · 21:9
The short answer
1Most people need one, not both. Both carry 2% Bidens Pilosa. Pick the texture that suits your skin and routine. 2Choose the moisturiser if your skin feels dry or tight, or you want one simple step morning and night. 3Choose the serum if your skin is oily or combination, you already own a moisturiser you like, or you want something light under makeup. 4Use both if you want a layered routine and you're happy to pay for two products. We haven't tested whether both together give better results, so we won't say they do. 5Choose neither if you need fragrance-free, react to daisy-family plants, or want the best-evidenced option.

When a brand makes two products with the same key ingredient, the easy move is to tell you to buy both. We'd rather you buy the right one. For most people that's a single product, and which one depends mostly on your skin and what you already use.

01What's the same

The two share more than they don't. Both contain 2% Bidens Pilosa extract, the plant retinol alternative. Both are 99% natural origin and certified COSMOS Natural by Ecocert Greenlife. Both are made in the EU. Both use aloe leaf juice as their base, with glycerin, jojoba oil and two forms of hyaluronic acid.

They also share a scent. Each contains Parfum and geranium flower oil, and each declares the same four allergens: Geraniol, Citronellol, Linalool and Citral. Neither is fragrance-free, and Bidens Pilosa is a daisy-family plant in both.

The evidence behind the shared ingredients is the same too. We've set it out for the moisturiser and for the serum.

02What's different

Serum Moisturiser
Texture Light, water-based fluid Light, silky cream
Size 30 ml 50 ml
Lasts, used twice daily About two months About two months
Extra actives Rosehip oil, lactic acid Sodium PCA, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, Alteromonas ferment extract
Organic origin 24% 23%
Where it goes After cleansing, before moisturiser After serum, before SPF

The consumer-perception figures for each formula are close, with the moisturiser a little higher on comfort and hydration: 95% felt instantly comforted with the moisturiser, 90% with the serum. Those come from separate panels, and panel sizes haven't been published for either, so treat them as a rough guide only.

03Choose the moisturiser if

✓Your skin feels dry, tight or dehydrated, especially after cleansing.
✓You want one product that does the whole job, morning and night.
✓You don't currently use a moisturiser you're happy with.
✓You found retinol creams too harsh and want the gentler version of that step.

See the Retinol Alternative Moisturiser

04Choose the serum if

✓Your skin is oily or combination and creams feel heavy.
✓You already have a moisturiser or SPF you like and don't want to replace it.
✓You want something very light under makeup.
✓You like layering and want the active in a thin first step.

See the Retinol Alternative Serum

05Using both

They're designed to layer. Apply the serum first, let it settle for a minute, then the moisturiser. There's nothing in either that clashes with the other.

What we can't tell youUsing both puts Bidens Pilosa in two steps of your routine. Nobody has tested whether that gives better results than using one, so we won't claim it does. What you do get is the serum's lighter texture and the moisturiser's extra hydrators in one routine.

If you do use both, introduce them a week apart. If your skin reacts, you'll know which one caused it.

06When neither is right

–You need a fragrance-free product. Both declare four fragrance allergens.
–You react to ragweed, daisies or chamomile. Bidens Pilosa is in the same family.
–You want the strongest evidence. Retinol has decades of trials, and our retinol guide explains when it's worth the adjustment period.
–You want a plant alternative with a human trial behind it. Bakuchiol has a 12-week study against retinol; our comparison covers it.
–You're pregnant or breastfeeding and haven't checked with your doctor or midwife.

07Three simple routines

Routine Morning Evening
Moisturiser only Cleanse · moisturiser · SPF Cleanse · moisturiser
Serum only Cleanse · serum · your moisturiser · SPF Cleanse · serum · your moisturiser
Both Cleanse · serum · moisturiser · SPF Cleanse · serum · moisturiser

Whatever you choose, daily SPF does more to protect your skin than any serum or moisturiser. Give any routine twelve weeks before judging it on fine lines.

08Your questions, answered

Is one stronger than the other?

Both contain 2% Bidens Pilosa extract. Neither has been tested against the other, so we can't call either one stronger.

Can I use the moisturiser in the morning and the serum at night?

Yes. Neither needs to be kept to evenings, so split them however suits you.

Which is better for sensitive skin?

Both were formulated for all skin types and both contain the same fragrance allergens. The moisturiser scored slightly higher on comfort in its testing. Patch test either one first if your skin is reactive.

Does the 60-Day Promise cover both?

It covers your first order, up to two bottles, conditions apply. If you order one of each on your first order, both are covered.

Choose your step Same retinol alternative, two textures. 60-Day Promise on your first order, conditions apply.
Original sources
  1. Dieamant G. et al. Antiageing mechanisms of a standardized supercritical CO₂ preparation of Black Jack (Bidens pilosa L.) in human fibroblasts and skin fragments. Evid Based Complement Alternat Med, 2015. Read the source
  2. Dhaliwal S. et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol 180:289–296, 2019.
  3. Kafi R. et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol 143:606–612, 2007.
  4. Consumer-perception testing on our serum and moisturiser formulas (supplied data; full reports requested).

This article is for general information and isn't medical advice. Cosmetic product: all claims describe the appearance of skin.

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