5%, 10% or 40% urea: how much do you need?
What each strength of urea does, which one suits your skin, and where hydroxyethyl urea fits in.
Walk down the skincare aisle of a German pharmacy and you will see urea creams at 5%, 10%, 20%, 30% and 40%. They are not the same product at different strengths. As the percentage goes up, urea starts doing a different job.
This guide explains what each strength does, who each one suits, and why our Hydroxyethyl Urea Body Cream uses a related humectant rather than plain urea.
01What urea is
Urea is a small molecule your skin makes itself. It is part of the natural moisturising factor that keeps the outer layer supple. Cosmetic urea is made synthetically and is identical to the skin's own. It attracts and holds water, and at higher concentrations it loosens the bonds between dead skin cells.
02What each strength does
| Strength | What it does | Who it suits |
|---|---|---|
| Up to 5% | Moisturises: draws water into the outer layer | Normal to dry skin, daily body and face care |
| About 10% | Moisturises and begins to soften roughness | Dry, rough skin on legs, arms, elbows |
| 20% to 30% | Softens and loosens thicker skin | Very rough heels and knees, calluses |
| 40% and above | Breaks down thick keratin | Thickened nails and calluses, usually with medical advice |
These bands are approximate, and reviews describe a gradual shift rather than sharp cut-offs. Higher strengths can sting on dry, broken or sensitive skin, so more isn't better unless your skin is genuinely thick.
- Celleno L. Topical urea in skincare: A review. Dermatol Ther 31(6):e12690, 2018. Read the source
03What the evidence shows
Urea is one of the best-studied moisturising ingredients. In one study, volunteers who used urea moisturisers on normal skin for 20 days lost less water through their skin and reacted less to an irritant detergent, while urea-free moisturisers made no difference to either. That study tested plain urea.
- Lodén M. Urea-containing moisturizers influence barrier properties of normal skin. Arch Dermatol Res 288(2):103–107, 1996. Read the source
04Where hydroxyethyl urea fits
Hydroxyethyl urea is urea with a small chemical group attached. It is a strong humectant with a lighter, less sticky feel, and in tests published by the company that made it, it moisturised about as well as glycerin. It is not the same molecule as urea, and there is no good evidence that it softens thick skin the way 10% plain urea does.
Our body cream contains hydroxyethyl urea with 2% panthenol and three other humectants. We call it a hydroxyethyl urea cream, not a urea cream, because that is what it is. It suits everyday dry, rough skin. For very thick or cracked skin, a plain urea cream at 10% or more from a pharmacy is the better tool. The full evidence is in the research behind our Hydroxyethyl Urea Body Cream.
05How to choose
- Everyday dry body skin: a low-strength urea cream or a humectant-rich cream such as ours.
- Rough, flaky shins, elbows and knees: about 10% urea, or a humectant cream used daily.
- Hard, thick heels: 20% to 30% urea on the heels only.
- Thick nails or calluses: 40% urea, ideally with a pharmacist's or podiatrist's advice.
- Reactive skin that stings easily: skip high strengths; try a butter-rich cream such as our Sensitive Skin Body Cream.
06How to use urea creams
Apply after washing, on slightly damp skin, once or twice a day. Keep strong urea creams to the areas that need them, and wash your hands afterwards. Don't use high strengths on broken or cracked skin, around the eyes, or on the face unless the product is made for it. If you have diabetes, speak to your doctor before using strong creams on your feet.
07Why urea can sting
On very dry or broken skin, urea can cause a brief stinging or burning feeling, especially at higher strengths. It usually settles as the skin improves. If it doesn't, or if the skin reddens, stop and try a lower strength or a butter-based cream.
08Your questions, answered
Is 5% or 10% urea better?
For everyday dry skin, 5% is usually enough. For rough, flaky skin, 10% also helps soften it. Higher isn't better unless the skin is thick.
Can I use 40% urea on my body?
No. 40% is for thick nails and calluses, on small areas, ideally with advice.
Is hydroxyethyl urea the same as urea?
No. It is a related humectant with a lighter feel. The softening research on plain urea doesn't apply to it.
Does your body cream contain urea?
It contains hydroxyethyl urea, not plain urea, with 2% panthenol.
Does the 60-Day Promise apply?
Yes, on your first order, conditions apply.
This article is for general information and isn't medical advice. Cosmetic products: all claims describe the appearance and feel of skin.