Journal/Guides
The honest guide

Which serum is right for you?

Four serums, four different jobs. What each one does, who it suits, and how to combine two without overdoing it.

Elurelia EditorialUpdated 29 September 20264 min read
Which serum is right for you?
Key takeaways
1Start with your main concern, not the trend. Tone and sensitivity, firmness, or fine lines. 2Fragrance-sensitive? Start with niacinamide. It is our only fragrance-free serum. 3One serum is often enough. Two can work; more rarely helps. 4Give it eight to twelve weeks. That is how long most of the studies ran.

We make four serums, and they are not four versions of the same thing. Each is built around a different ingredient with a different kind of evidence. This guide helps you pick one, or two, and skip the rest.

01The four at a glance

Serum Main ingredient Best for Scent
Fragrance-Free Niacinamide Serum Niacinamide (vitamin B3) Dull, uneven-looking skin; sensitive skin ○ Fragrance-free
Peptide Anti-Ageing Serum Hexapeptide-11, ginkgo, hyaluronic acid Skin that looks less firm ◐ 3 allergens
Retinol Alternative Serum 2% Bidens Pilosa Fine lines, without retinol ◐ 5 allergens
Natural Retinol Alternative Oil Serum Bakuchiol in organic oils Fine lines on dry skin ◐ 5 allergens

02Choose by concern

Dull, uneven tone or dark spots. Start with niacinamide. It has the most human evidence of our four actives for tone, with placebo-controlled trials at 2% to 5%. Our percentage isn't published, and the research article explains what that means.

Fine lines. Choose a plant retinol alternative. Bakuchiol, in our oil serum, has one small randomised trial against retinol. Bidens Pilosa, in our Retinol Alternative Serum, has less human evidence. Retinol vs. retinol alternatives sets out the difference.

Firmness. The Peptide Anti-Ageing Serum. Most hexapeptide-11 research is on skin cells, and we say so.

03Choose by skin type

Your skin Our suggestion Why
Sensitive or fragrance-reactive Niacinamide No fragrance and no declared allergens
Dry Oil serum, or niacinamide under a rich cream Oils soften; niacinamide supports barrier lipids
Oily or combination Niacinamide or the Retinol Alternative Serum Light, water-based textures
Normal Any, by concern Pick the one that matches your main goal

04Combining two serums

Two serums can work together if they do different jobs. A simple pattern: niacinamide in the morning, a retinol alternative or peptide serum in the evening. Or both in the evening, thinnest first.

Introduce one at a time, two weeks apart, so that if your skin reacts you know which one caused it. Three or more serums rarely add anything but cost and more chances for irritation.

Morning Evening
Niacinamide serum, moisturiser, sunscreen Retinol Alternative Serum or oil serum, then night cream
Niacinamide serum, moisturiser, sunscreen Peptide serum, then night cream

05A note on scent

Three of our four serums are lightly scented, and we name every declared allergen on each page. If fragrance is a known trigger for you, the Fragrance-Free Niacinamide Serum is the only one to consider. Our simple routine for sensitive skin shows where it fits.

06Texture and layering order

Apply serums from the thinnest to the thickest. The Retinol Alternative Serum and the Peptide Anti-Ageing Serum are light and water-based. The Fragrance-Free Niacinamide Serum is a light cream-serum. The oil serum is exactly that, an oil, so it always goes last among the serums, or can be mixed into your night cream.

Let each layer settle for a few seconds before the next. There is no need to wait minutes between steps; that advice mostly applies to strong acids and prescription retinoids, which none of these are.

07Morning or evening?

Niacinamide works well in the morning under sunscreen, and just as well at night. The plant retinol alternatives aren't known to make skin sun-sensitive the way retinol can, but evenings are a natural home for them, especially the oil serum. The peptide serum suits either.

Whatever you choose, sunscreen in the morning does more for fine lines and uneven tone than any serum. None of ours contain SPF.

08Signs a serum isn't right for you

  • Stinging, burning or redness that lasts more than a few minutes after applying.
  • Small bumps or itching in the areas where you apply it.
  • Dryness or flaking that keeps getting worse after the first two weeks.

If any of these happen, stop using the serum. If your skin reacts, the 60-Day Promise refunds you in full straight away on your first order, conditions apply. If a reaction is severe or doesn't settle, see a pharmacist or doctor.

09How long to give it

Most of the studies behind these ingredients ran for eight to twelve weeks. Judge any serum after two to three months of daily use, not two weeks. That is also why the 60-Day Promise on your first order, conditions apply, gives you two months before you decide.

10Quick answers

Which of your serums is best for sensitive skin?

The Fragrance-Free Niacinamide Serum. It has no fragrance and no declared allergens.

Can I use the niacinamide serum with a retinol alternative?

Yes. Many people use niacinamide in the morning and the retinol alternative at night.

Do I need a serum at all?

No. A good moisturiser and daily sunscreen matter more. A serum adds a targeted ingredient if you want one.

Which has the strongest evidence?

Niacinamide, from placebo-controlled human trials at known strengths. Our own percentage isn't published.

Not sure yet? Start with the serum that matches your main concern. 60-Day Promise on your first order, conditions apply.

This article is for general information and isn't medical advice. Cosmetic products: all claims describe the appearance and feel of skin.

Why we publish all of this

Every ingredient, published.

Each product page lists the full ingredient list, every declared allergen, who it suits and who should skip it. If the research is thin, the page says so.

Shop the range 60-Day Promise on your first order, conditions apply. Free shipping over €75.